Buitrago del Lozoya, the only walled town in Madrid that houses a Picasso

Buitrago del Lozoya preserves the most important intact walled enclosure in Madrid and hides the Picasso Museum with Eugenio Arias's collection.

Patricia Navarro
Patricia Navarro
· 3 min read

Buitrago del Lozoya preserves the most important intact walled enclosure in the Community of Madrid, with over 800 metres of perimeter, and houses the Picasso Museum with the collection of Eugenio Arias, the painter's barber.

Buitrago del Lozoya is the only town in the Community of Madrid that has its entire walled enclosure standing, more than 800 metres of perimeter of Muslim origin from the 11th century, later reinforced by the Christians. The meander of the Lozoya River surrounds the wall and acts as a natural moat. Walking along the walkway, the high part known as the coracha, allows you to see the river from the same position occupied by the medieval guards.

The complex includes the Castle of the Mendoza, at one end of the enclosure, in Mudejar style and built of brick and stone. It was the residence of one of the most powerful families in Spain, and Juana la Beltraneja passed through its halls. It has seven towers, each one different. The interior is now used for cultural events and early music festivals.

In the basement of the Town Hall is the Picasso Museum – Eugenio Arias Collection, as reported by noticiasdelvino.com. Eugenio Arias was a barber and friend of Picasso during his exile in France. The painter would gift him drawings, ceramics, and engravings after each haircut, and Arias decided that this collection would remain in his hometown. Among the pieces is a pyrographed barber's tool box by Picasso.

The wall has more than 800 metres of perimeter. It is not just a stone wall; it is a work of military engineering that could never be taken by force,” the information about the enclosure states.

To see the complete silhouette of the wall reflected in the water, there are easy hiking routes that run along the opposite bank of the Lozoya. The Castle Viewpoint and the path that borders the reservoir are the two most common spots for that view. Buitrago is located in the Sierra Norte, just over an hour from central Madrid.

The local cuisine is based on roasts and the Sierra steak, with hearty dishes such as judiones. The restaurants in the centre maintain a good quality-price ratio and local produce.

Access to the walled enclosure and the castle is free, while the Picasso Museum, on the ground floor of the Town Hall, opens during municipal office hours. The visit can be completed in a morning, with stops at the viewpoints and a meal in the historic centre.

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